Expert explains what really causes eye bags and dark circles - and it's not sleep

An eye specialist has broken down the truth behind what really causes eye bags and dark circles, saying sleep isn't always the reason. Speaking on Diary of a CEO podcast show, hosted by Steven Bartlett, Dr Joseph Allen shared his knowledge of eyes.

Dr Joseph Allen is an optometrist and leading expert in eye health. He is the creator of the ‘Doctor Eye Health’ YouTube channel and host of the podcast, ‘Eye Give A Damn!’

Dr Allen says there are misconceptions about the causes of bags under the eyes, often assumed to be due to stress and lack of sleep. However, research suggests otherwise.

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What causes eye bags and dark circles?

Dr Allen first off explains there is a distinction between under-eye bags and dark circles. Dark circles can be influenced by skin pigmentation, with increased pigmentation potentially leading to darker circles.

"Having dark circles under the eyes is technically different than having under eye bags. But if you have under eye bags it'll make the appearance of dark circles worse," he said.

The expert says sunlight can cause the skin around the eyelids, which are very sensitive, to become darker. It's essential to shield your eyes from the sun by wearing sunglasses or a wide-brimmed hat, as the lower eyelid is at risk for skin cancer.

Vascular changes, like the widening of blood vessels from allergies, can enhance the visibility of dark circles, particularly in those with lighter skin tones. Additionally, the shape of the brow and eye socket can create orbital shadows that further highlight dark circles. The presence of under-eye bags can make this issue even more pronounced, Dr Allen added.

Swelling around the eyelids can happen for several reasons, such as allergies or eating too much salt. Eating salty foods might cause temporary swelling, but using cold compresses can help alleviate it.

Dr Allen also mentioned evidence suggests that a high-salt diet can increase the likelihood of waking up with bags under the eyes. Although, he stressed scientific publications on this are lacking.

Dark circles under the eyes are commonly linked to insufficient sleep. Studies show that although inadequate rest doesn't actually alter the look of dark circles, it can impact how individuals perceive their own appearance.

Stress and insufficient sleep are often thought to lead to dark circles or puffiness around the eyes. However, recent research indicates that these elements may not directly influence the actual pigmentation of the eyelids. Instead, other physiological changes, like the release of cortisol and inflammation, could be contributing factors.

Do cucumbers help with eye bags?

When asked by Steven Bartlett if cucumbers really improve the appearance of skin around the eyes, Dr Allen said they do, but not for long. He explained that applying a cold compresses, such as cucumbers, can temporarily reduce the appearance of dark circles and eye bags by causing constriction of blood vessels and reducing swelling.

"The coolness effect is causing restriction of blood vessels," he said. "It's going to be helping the tissue come down and swelling just like if you bang your knee or elbow really hard on something, it swells and there's a little bit inflammation. So putting cold on there can help momentarily."

However, it should not be done for more than 15 minutes to avoid increased inflammation, he warned. Maintaining good sleep, a healthy diet, and staying hydrated are recommended habits to prevent dark circles and eye bags, as they positively affect the body in various ways.

Do eye creams really work?

For those dealing with dark circles and puffiness around the eyes, trying out specialised creams might be helpful. However, it's a good idea to seek advice from a healthcare professional, like a dermatologist or an eye care expert, to get the best recommendations.

There are many eye creams on the market designed to assist with reducing blood vessel visibility and eliminating pigmentation. However, to see real results, it's important to use them consistently over a period of several months.

If non-surgical options don't work for you, there are surgical procedures that can enhance the look of under-eye bags and dark circles. These options include light therapies to eliminate pigmentation, hyaluronic acid fillers to reduce shadowing, and blepharoplasty, an eyelid surgery carried out by an ophthalmologist.