Goa's pre-Diwali attraction that ignites creativity and celebration

SRIDHAR D IYER

Diwali, the festival of lights, is celebrated by crores of Hindus within and outside India with great gusto. Everyone has a merry time at the crack of dawn on Diwali day. But did you know of the one distinctive event that happens in Goa on the eve of Diwali? It is the burning of effigies of Narakasura.      

Who was Narakasura?

In mythology, Naraka was a god-fearing and pious person, but in the company of Banasura, he became a demon (Narakasura). Being greedy for power, he controlled the kingdoms on earth. 

Lord Vishnu acceded to the requests of the with the assurance that he would get rid of Narakasura in his avatar as Lord Krishna.

Aditi, whose earrings Narakasura had stolen, approached Satyabhama (presumed to be Bhudevi), wife of Krishna, for help as they were related to one another. Satyabhama was angered and desired Krishna to teach Narakasura a lesson.

Krishna attacked the mighty fortress of Narakasura and when the latter attempted to kill Krishna with a trident, the latter feigned loss of consciousness. Fuming in anger, Satyabhama attacked Narakasura, but Krishna woke up and split Narakasura into two halves using his Sudarshana chakra (discus).

Apparently, before he died, Narakasura repented for the misery he had caused and pleaded that everyone should celebrate his with colourful lights. Hence, this day is celebrated as Naraka chaturdashi – the first day or eve of Diwali.

Only in Goa is there a tradition of making effigies of Narakasura (locally called Narkasur) and burning them. This is to signify the victory of good over evil.

The making of a Narkasur effigy

A few days before Diwali, the boys from a waddo (ward) or housing society discuss the format to be followed to make a Narkasur effigy. The themes and characters could be from mythology, events such as India’s mission to the moon and Mars, global political events, and social issues, and so forth.

Once the design and concepts are finalised, then begins the collection of materials such as wooden planks, nails, thin iron rods, old newspapers, glue, old and several bundles of hay. The construction of Narkasurs is carried out during late evenings, nights and on holidays.

Wooden poles form the spine of the effigy and to this are nailed wooden planks for the face, chest, feet and hands. For larger effigies, thin iron frameworks are used.

Prior to the burning of the effigies, a committee of people, either appointed by the government or by the locals, move around in a locality or city to judge the effigies. The winners are declared and cash prizes are distributed.

The skeletons are packed with abundant hay and shaped to form muscular features. Subsequently, sacks are tied around the structure using thin coir ropes and covered by and glued with several layers of newspapers. For a macho look, the boys will even shape 6 or 8-pack abs on the !

The effigies are painted and later dressed. The cost and work on an effigy increase if automation is added.

Ready-made faces, arms and feet of the Narkasurs are bought. These are made as a cottage industry using papier-mâché, and each cost a few thousands of rupees. The 3-D effect of these additions enhance Narakasura’s terrifying appearance.

The people, local politicians and people living in the vicinity usually chip in handsomely.

Just before the stroke of midnight, the effigy is lit by dousing it with a little petrol, to a background roar of approval from the people. Firecrackers lend an added effect.

Some boys stay back to see that the fire is under control and keep buckets of water for any emergency. Once the effigy is fully burnt and only smouldering embers are present, only then the go home for a well-deserved rest.

The Narkasurs are generally burnt where they are built but are sometimes taken to a ground where several effigies are sent up in flames.

Prior to the burning of the effigies, a committee of people, either appointed by the government or by the locals, move around in a locality or city to judge the effigies. The winners are declared and cash prizes are distributed.

The uncommon cultural experience will be far more enriching and satisfying than the regular sights and sounds that draw crowds to Goa.

Some takeaways

This unique activity creates a sense of comradeship among the boys, irrespective of their religious affiliations and other social factors.

On your next visit to Goa, make it around Diwali to enjoy the sights of the Narkasurs. The uncommon cultural experience will be far more enriching and satisfying than the regular sights and sounds that draw crowds to Goa.